This page holds my running list of tools that I recommend for repairing shoes made with traditional European constructions, such as welted, stitchdown, and Blake/McKay.
Utility Knife
Many shoe repairers use disposable utility blades, with or without stropping or honing to keep them fresh.
- Orcon Utility Knife (bare aluminum)
- Orcon Utility Knife Plus (non-slip)
If you’d rather keep a reusable blade sharp, consider a "McKay Stitcher Knife".
- Hyde
- Dexter Russell
- R. Murphy
- C.S. Osborne Number 479
- Tandy Leather markets some as "Straight Knife" or "Trim Knife"
If you plan to do more worm rebuilding uppers or new shoe making, try one of the kinds of knives shoemakers use.
| Style | Example | |
|---|---|---|
| European | TINA Model 230 (lighter) or 270 (sturdier) | The curved models are better for pull skiving. TINA also make flat models. |
| English | George Barnsley & Sons Paring Knife | Barnsley paring knives are all flat, but have broader, more obliquely angled edges that work for push skiving. |
| Asian | Craft Sha Model 8667 (right-handed) or 8669 (left-handed) | More and more European custom makers seem to be moving toward Asian-style leather knives, as well. These knives are extremely versatile when used both forehand and backhand. |
Pincers
- C.S. Osborne Number 93
A good set of pincers has jaws that curve as they come together. This lets you grab something with the jaws, like an outsole, and rock the pincers pack smoothly to pry the material away in a rolling motion.
Good pincers also have jaws that come together along sharp edges flush with the surface. This lets you clip pegs and other work flush.
Pry
- C.S. Osborne Number 799
A good pry is thin enough to wiggle under heel lifts but strong enough not to bend as you pry them up.
A pry with a handle is often very comfortable to use. I’ve also got good results with a motorcycle tire iron.
Lip Knife
- R. Murphy
- C.S. Osborne Number 81
Lip knives are directional, with the lip of the blade curving either to the left or the right. Buy the lip knife that matches your dominant hand, so the curve of the lip faces the upper of a shoe as you pull the knife toward your body.
Jerk Needle
- Groz-Beckert American Shoe Number 5
- Groz-Beckert American Shoe Number 6
Where a custom shoemaker might prefer to saddle stitch inner and outer seams, lockstitching is often more good enough. It is also much faster.
You will need some kind of screw-collet-type awl haft to hold the needle.
- C.S. Osborne Number 142 or 145
- Tandy Leather
Hammer
- C.S. Osborne Number 65 (French)
- C.S. Osborne Number 66 (London)
A smooth, concave face allows tapping and hammering leather without marring. A thin peen with rounded edges allows tapping welt edges and between between stitches.
You may also want a broader, heavier hammer if you plan to pound many outsoles, rather than using a press.
I prefer to keep one hammer for driving nails and tacks and another for tapping leather. With just one hammer, you will want to make a habit of checking the face of your hammer before tapping leather, in case you need to dress it to avoid making marks.
Nail Set
- C.S. Osborne Number 797
A narrow punch set in a handle for driving with a mallet.
Tack Puller
- C.S. Osborne Number 202
Anvil
You will need some kind of anvil that you can slide boots and shoes over. It’s important that the edges be rounded and smooth, so as not to cause damage. It's also important than any rust, paint, or dirt be removed, to avoid making marks.